This past Saturday (the 12th) was the day of 2008’s Royal Stumble at Nodding Head Brewpub (warning: link resizes your window) at 1516 Sansom in Philly. It was what one might call the best damn fest I’ve ever been to as long as you don’t count Savor.
The Royal Stumble is a unique brew fest in that attendees get to stay in one spot and eat and drink while the exhibiting breweries send staff armed with pitchers to fill up everybody’s tasters. Each brewery was allowed to bring two staffers and one keg of beer. First brewery to kick a keg wins! Ah, Nodding Head, always so weird.
We arrived at the brewpub at 11am to get in line. Our friends had warned us to show up early so we’d be able to get a good table — good advice. The line stretched all the way down the block and up 16th Street by the time the doors opened up at 1pm.
As the second group into the pub, we had our pick of the tables. After being accosted at the entrance by Triumph Brewing Company’s Beer Bitches (Don’t look at me like that. It said that on their shirts.) and being served a sample of Triumph’s delicious Saison, we made a quick left turn into the back room behind the bar and staked out a soon-to-be-sticky high-top table at the end of a converted church pew.
It was but moments before the sweet smells of the buffet lured us toward the northern end of the pub. There, we found a nice selection of typical barbeque buffet food: among other things, there was fried chicken, cole slaw, pasta salad, and some of the best pulled pork I have ever tasted in my 27 years, sweet, dripping with juice, and spiced liberally with cinnamon.

Eating that thing was obviously very important to me.
Photo credit to Stephanie Weber.
Also near the buffet, in the northeast corner of the pub by the bay windows, was the band. I have no idea what their name was, but they were great fun to listen to. Jammy and long winded, they reminded me a lot of The Slip before they started doing nothing but indie rock.

He is probably a lot better than I am at bass. I am not very good at bass at all.
Photo credit to Stephanie Weber.
As we finished our first tasters back at our table, further armies of beer pourers zeroed in on our empty glasses. Within the next ten minutes, we got to try Doc Street Brewpub’s Chupar un Limon, a lemon and lime infused Kölsch that reminded me a little too much of rosemary, Sly Fox’s spicy and refreshing Whitehorse Wit, and Flying Fish’s beautifully complex X-Perimental Pale Ale, a new personal favorite of mine that featured no fewer than five different hop varieties.

You can’t seeeee meeeee….
Photo. Stephanie.
By 2:30, Triumph had already managed to kick their keg, which surprised no one, as they had boobs running around pouring beer for them. Cheap. Everyone who was able to make it out to the fest had arrived by then, and even with a full crowd, the pub was never unnavigable. At this point, the four of us began to take turns getting up from the table to explore the rest of the breweries.

Yeah, I dunno. I figure someone must’ve stepped on my foot, maybe?
Not Stephanie Weber, but it was her camera, so yeah.
Stoudt’s had their hefeweizen, which Ale Street News had rightfully named the best hefe in the US. Weyerbacher’s Muse farmhouse ale was one that I was already familiar with, but given that Weyerbacher is probably my favorite brewery, I had to have some. Victory had their Braumeister Pils, one in their series of single hop focused brews, this one featuring Hallertauer mf.
The big standout of the entire fest for me was General Lafayette Inn’s Lafayette’s Escape. Despite being a mere 1.9% ABV, this beer was darker than mulch and roastier than coffee. We were all dumbfounded to consider how this was possible! I spent a good half hour talking about brewing with Lafayette’s Assistant Brewer, Russ Czajka, who explained to me that the combination of low alcohol and big flavor had been achieved by using a fairly small amount of malts, but mashing at a higher temperature than normal, allowing them to extract a wide variety of flavor components from a light grain bill. It made sense to me: The noticeable, but oddly delicious in this case, tannin flavors in the beer should have tipped me off. I think I refilled my glass eight or nine times while standing at that table.
South of Lafayette’s table was the hallway leading to Nodding Head’s brew rooms, which were vacant enough for us to explore for a few minutes. Tim and I came across a gorgeous little barrel that beckoned us to put our hands on it and feel the power. I’d sure like to know what was in there.

Tim was attracted by the cosmic energy.
Photo credit goes to me for once.
The two-person limit that was imposed on the breweries meant that most companies sent their most knowledgeable people. There were more than a few brewmasters present, along with local beer authors Don Russell and Lew Bryson, beer lass and lovely Sly Fox lady Suzanne from In Pursuit of Ale (warning: MySpace link), and Bobby from Ale Street News. Steph and Tim spent almost half of the fest networking, and Mel and I found several opportunities to put Bathtub Brewery’s URL in a few important hands.
The combination of delicious food, excellent beer, and local luminaries with Nodding Head’s bizarre yet somehow old fashioned atmosphere made for one of the most unique and fun brew fest experiences we’ve ever come across. I cannot recommend the Royal Stumble enough. If you want to come out next year, show up early so you can stake out a good table.
If you can’t make it to next year’s Stumble, then at least pay a visit to Nodding Head for dinner some night. They have some of the most creative brews in the Philly area, and some brilliant food to go with it. It’s easy enough to find: Just take the PATCO train to 15th & 16th, and head south on 16th when you get to street level. Turn left at Sansom, and you’ll see Nodding Head’s entrance tucked behind a cigar shop on the right side of the street about an eighth of a mile up.
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